This week we will be adding various amount of ease to our perfectly fitted slopers! We have a fitted block, now you can decide how much ease you like in your garments, and add the ease.
Now, you will redraft your pieces using ease for various fits. You have a perfect fitted sloper, now make semi-fitted, loose, jacket, and whatever fits that your heart desires!
Showing posts with label Pattern Drafting Challenge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pattern Drafting Challenge. Show all posts
Sloper Muslin Week 4: Creating Blocks
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Sloper Muslin Week 1: Gather Materials and Add Seam Allowance
As mentioned in an earlier post, be sure to have your wearing ease added into your flat pattern for your sloper. At this point, you will be adding seam allowances so that you can sew together your muslin.
It is really quite self explanatory, but below are a few tutorials on adding seam allowance. There is also a link to a double tracing wheel which can be quite handy when adding seem allowances.
What you will need:
- Muslin or another inexpensive woven (nonstretch) fabric
- Sewing machine or hand needle
- Fabric marker, pencil, or chalk (two of your choice) or as an alternative to these, you may want to use a tracing wheel and tracing paper ,
- Masking tape
- Pins
- Rubber Bands
I actually would read through these next few sets of links before you purchase anything.
Now on to adding seam allowance!
With a gauge: http://youtu.be/HL06dvr7CPI
With a double training wheel: http://youtu.be/Y4IPN9Otf68
Decide which way you would like to do it and purchase accordingly.
Now on to adding seam allowance!
With a gauge: http://youtu.be/HL06dvr7CPI
With a double training wheel: http://youtu.be/Y4IPN9Otf68
Decide which way you would like to do it and purchase accordingly.
Sloper Muslin Week 2: Sewing Sloper Muslins
Now you have your pattern made. This week we will be cutting and sewing.
If you chose to use the two pencils to add seam allowance, you may want to mark the allowance on your sewing machine with rubber bands, tape, or magnets that are designed for this purpose.
Trace a pattern onto fabric: http://youtu.be/_-0Id47fMqU
Tutorial on sewing straight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWk9kqaXz1w
Tutorial on sewing darts: http://youtu.be/TsFZSm2FnZc
How to assemble pants: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_403WEtMeoo
iTunes U Sewing and Fashion Design Materials (also available on YouTube)
No intro. I haven't watched them, but if you get to them before I do, let me know how these classes are! They are free so at most you will waste some time. Check them out!
Basic Apparel Construction
Basic Apparel Manufaturing
Professional Patternmaking II
Here are some additional fashion design courses:
Again, I haven't watched any of them, but you may find them useful! Let me know.
Pattern Ease
Before you start your sloper, you need to know about pattern ease. There is wearing ease and design ease. For the purposes of making this sloper, you will be concerned with wearing ease. You will add the appropriate amount to your measurements before you begin drafting. Here is a good link on adding ease to your sloper.
Once you have fitted your sloper, and you are sure your measurements are proper, you can add the design ease to make blocks to serve as a base for your other garments.You can find the amount of ease added to sewing patterns on any pattern website. Here is Butterick's Chart. They have derived these numbers by adding the wearing and design ease. For wearing ease, you can look at their fitted dress, shirt, etc. ease.
Here is the page on ease from Vogue Sewing:
RECAP:
Step two: Make other basic patterns, each with the desired amount of design ease. You may have several different pattern blocks: fitted, semi-fitted, and loose for shirts and dresses, jackets, coats, and pants.
Step three: Change up sleeves, necklines, closures, etc. to make different garments from each of you blocks.
UPDATES: Here are some more ease charts.
Pattern Drafting Challenge Introduction
Pattern Drafting Slopers Week 5: The Pencil Skirt
You have made it through the hard part of drafting! Now, onto something simple. We will call this the pattern drafting cool down. We will be using the blouse/bodice measurement chart to draft a simple pencil skirt.
Here is the blog post tutorial:
Video:
Here is a video by Cathleen de Ontiveros http://youtu.be/Y0TXEkRXmOk
Pattern Drafting Slopers Week 4: Pants
Now that our top sloper is complete, we will begin working on bottoms. First, we will do the pant sloper. For this you will need the measurements that you took for the pants.
Below are some additional resources on drafting the pant slopers:
- http://tashassewingtutorials.wordpress.com/2013/06/04/how-to-draft-a-womens-pant-pattern-block-part-i-the-front/
- http://tashassewingtutorials.wordpress.com/2013/06/05/how-to-draft-a-womans-pant-pattern-part-ii-the-back/
- http://tashassewingtutorials.wordpress.com/2013/06/16/how-to-make-a-pant-pattern-part-iii-an-inset-pocket-pattern-front-pant-pocket-pattern/
Video:
Pattern
Drafting Challenge Introduction
Pattern Drafting Slopers Week 3: Sleeves
We have the front and back of our tops done, now we need to make the place for our arms. This week, we will work on sleeves.
So, consult your measurement chart and let's get ready!
Here is the post for this weeks post:
Here is an additional resource:
Pattern Drafting Slopers Week 2: Bodice
Now that you have your materials, it is time to get to drafting! Yay!
This week, we will be filling out our measurement charts you haven't already. (I know some eager beavers have their charts already! :-)
Again, here is a very useful post with regards to taking body measurements for men and women and there is a chart included:
If you are drafting for children, you may want to use these measurements and charts:
Once we have our measurements, we will begin with drafting our bodices. Brittney has prepared directions on her blog for our use: http://fashion-bandit.blogspot.com/2013/09/sloper-series-part-1.html
Additional resources on this topic are listed below:
Additional info for baby pooches (stomachs) and men
Additional info for children:- http://www.ikatbag.com/2010/08/drafting-part-ii-front-sloper.html
- http://www.ikatbag.com/2010/08/drafting-part-iii-back-sloper.html
More info for drafting men's shirts:
- http://mmodelista.blogspot.com/2013/09/parte-1.html
- http://mmodelista.blogspot.com/2013/09/parte-2_26.html
- http://mmodelista.blogspot.com/2013/09/blog-post_26.html
- http://mmodelista.blogspot.com/2013/09/detalhe-da-blusa-e-um-recorte-desenho.html
Here is a post on truing the bodice: http://www.madalynne.com/howtotruebodicesloper
If you have info to add, feel free. We are working together.
Pattern Drafting Challenge Introduction
Pattern Drafting Challenge Introduction
Pattern Drafting Slopers Week 1: Gathering Materials
Week 1:
While people are still signing up, we will begin gathering our materials and getting our measurements taken.
Brittney's post suggests the following:
- Measuring Tape
- Ruler
- Pen/Marking tool
- Calculator (optional)
- Grid (optional)
- Sheet of paper
I would only add that butcher paper and colored pencils are suggested by Lier at Ikatbag blog.
Here is a roll of paper that is only $5 a roll at Ikea.
Colored pencils are dirt cheap at Walmart right now.
Tasha Lee Maldonado does a wonderful job explaining how to take the measurements.
She also gives a chart that you may find useful in recording your measurements.
Chart for bodice: http://tashassewingtutorials.wordpress.com/2013/05/10/measurement-chart-for-blouse-pattern-block/
Chart for pant: http://tashassewingtutorials.wordpress.com/2013/05/11/measurement-chart-for-pant-pattern-block/
So grab a friend to measure you and grab your stuff. Next week, we will start working on our slopers! Finally, before you get started drafting next week, check out this quick post on Pattern
Ease.
P.S. I don't know if we will need them but here is a link to printable pattern drafting tools. Card stock or transparencies will make them pretty sturdy:http://thesewingnotebook.blogspot.com/2013/02/printable-patternmaking-tools.html
Pattern Drafting Challenge Introduction
Pattern Drafting Challenge Introduction
Pattern Drafting Challenge Introduction
JOIN US FOR A PATTERN DESIGN CHALLENGE:
If you are looking to design your own clothes or to achieve a better fit using commercial patterns, you should join the Sewing Inspiration and Tutorials's Pattern Drafting Challenge Series. This will be a challenge series that will take you from body measurements to well fit garments. THIS IS VERY BEGINNER FRIENDLY!
Below, you will find the plan for the challenge. We have already started it in our sewing group, but feel free to join at any time. (I actually haven't started yet.) Excuse the fact that all the posts are late, please. We didn't have but one participant and I think she has passed me up!
For the September Challenge, we will be drafting our slopers:
October Challenge- make a muslin
November Challenge- Design Elements
Week 1: Review basic design elements
Week 2: Necessary techniques
Week 3: Select your designs, plan, and draft them
Week 4: Sewing a muslin
December Challenge- Embellishments
Spend as much time as you like deciding which embellishments you like!
Here are some additional resources that a are particularly useful!
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